One of the great perks of a slow year of work has been the extra time to get right into surfing. I joke that I’ve spent the time learning how to get nailed by the swell and not freak out but it’s basically true. The beaches near me on the Mornington Peninsula are pretty rough most of the time. Ten days a year the sun is shining and the wind is light and I sit in the water feeling relaxed and magnificent waiting for gentle two- and three-foot waves to roll in. The rest of the time I’m some degree of terrified, battling the cold and the wind and the swell pretending I belong among the robust locals who actually know how to surf. I’ve learnt most of their names and some of them even talk to me now so, like, I’m a pretty big deal I guess. At least once every few weeks I enjoy a moment in the water thinking that I might die but so far so good.
Learning How to Get Nailed
Learning How to Get Nailed
Learning How to Get Nailed
One of the great perks of a slow year of work has been the extra time to get right into surfing. I joke that I’ve spent the time learning how to get nailed by the swell and not freak out but it’s basically true. The beaches near me on the Mornington Peninsula are pretty rough most of the time. Ten days a year the sun is shining and the wind is light and I sit in the water feeling relaxed and magnificent waiting for gentle two- and three-foot waves to roll in. The rest of the time I’m some degree of terrified, battling the cold and the wind and the swell pretending I belong among the robust locals who actually know how to surf. I’ve learnt most of their names and some of them even talk to me now so, like, I’m a pretty big deal I guess. At least once every few weeks I enjoy a moment in the water thinking that I might die but so far so good.